Pondering in the Rain

While waiting in the pouring rain, hopeful that a bear might come snag a spawning salmon nearly at my feet, I began to ponder the journey we all make in life. Mew gulls scream all around me as they feed on the spawned out carcasses in the nearby creek.

Sitting in the shelter of the branches of a massive Sitka spruce I ponder life's destiny. The rain is relentless but bears and birds don't care- they survive with their built-in raincoats. Fortunately, I have dry clothes and a trailer to return to. Unfortunately, the bears decide not to come eat in the rain this morning. 

I'm witness to the destination of hundreds of chum and pink salmon in Fish Creek in Hyder Alaska. Their destination to create new life. It may be a destination but it is not the end of their journey. The journey simply changes. Their carcasses feed the the stream that the juvenile salmon will emerge into. Their death feeds innumerable species besides the grizzly and black bears we come to observe. Mew gulls scream as they discuss their carcass gorging. Wolves will scavenge them. Carcasses will be drug into the surrounding landscape feeding the lush forest of salmonberry, western hemlock, devils club, alder, cottonwood, and so many more trees, shrubs, and plants. Even butterflies will gather nutrients off their carcasses. Research has found that at least 137 species benefit from salmon carcasses- even the tiny alevins feeding on the aquatic insects drawn to the nutrients of the creek. That's quite a legacy.

Our destination is similar and our journey continues in the legacy we leave behind- Love, kindness, compassion, wisdom. Our journey on this planet as a living being is short compared to others. These spruce are hundreds of years old. They stand and grow through all the changes of weather- wind, heavy snows, rains, and heat. Be a tree. Be a salmon. Be you.


A little winter wren sings it's big song serenading the only drenched human on the elevated boardwalk. Time to move on and continue my journey of discovery.

The Dance of Light

September 1, 2016. I got a message from a colleague that the Aurora Borealis would be strong tonight so I planned for the night/early morning viewing. I decided to go to bed at 10pm, clothed, and set my alarm for 2am. I fell out of bed at 2am feeling a bit "loopy" from my four hour nap, put on a coat, grabbed my camera, and went outside into the cold. I was still at the Cantwell RV Park so it was not completely dark but much darker than most areas in Western Washington. I had set my camera up to take photos, I thought, but I couldn't figure out how to get the live screen to work. After too many failed attempts I grabbed my phone to try taking photos with it.

As I stood outside in the cobble-filled parking lot I could see bands of what seemed like thinly veiled clouds at the horizon. I tried taking photos to no avail. Then the clouds came alive and I grabbed my phone and became mesmerized by the spectacular dance of light all around me. Swirling and twirling the entire starry night sky came alive. Lit up all around me the light cascaded like so many misty waterfalls down to the earth disappearing into the dark. For several moments the entire night sky came alive with the opaque dance. I didn't see any color in the lights but that didn't make the dance any less fantastic. (Actually the camera's "eye" catches the colors we can't see).

The spectacular dance of the Aurora Borealis captured my heart and spirit even in my loopy state (maybe that helped!). I stayed outside until I felt the cold seep into my bones. It was hard to pull myself away even though there was a break in the dance. It might start up again dazzling those who can feel it or maybe it's done for the night. I am so grateful for this moment. Describing these lights is impossible. Experiencing them is the only to feel them. Videos and photos are beautiful, more so once you've seen them in person.

Welcome September; the month of my birth and the time of Autumnal equinox. 

The wonders of the planet never cease to amaze and delight me and never will.

Postscript: I stayed up for the light show the next two nights however, they were nowhere near as amazing as this night. And apparently this night they were also amazing at 11pm. I found that out later when one of the folks at the RV park showed me their blurry photos on a cell phone. I was unsuccessful in getting photos.

Final Thoughts About the Journey

Pilgrimage: any long journey, especially one undertaken as a quest or for a votive purpose, as to pay homage

Why did I do this trip? Why not take three weeks, fly up, and spend more time at Denali National Park and other amazing spots? Because I wanted to see and feel the landscape, inhale its scents, meet the people who call it home. You can't do that from 30,000 feet up in the air.

It was a journey, a pilgrimage to find myself again and to follow a dream, a calling to go north. Because I drove 5,396 miles alone towing a trailer through amazing places on some pretty tough roads at times, I'm stronger, more confident, and wiser than when I began. I pushed past the fears and moved through the challenges. 

Would I do it again? In a heartbeat. Next time with unlimited time so I could spend more time visiting the places I had to bypass.

Would I take all the same stuff that I didn't use? Yes, I was completely self-sufficient so if something did happen I'd be fine until help came. Yes- the generator, solar panel, 5 gallons of gas, 5 gallons of water, and other assorted items would be packed up with me.

Someday I'll fly back to Anchorage and return to Denali and make some time for exploring the Kenai peninsula. It would be lonely without my little travel buddy though.

Even in the rain I enjoyed Hyder and I plan to drive back, maybe in July, to look for the elusive bears and the wolves that catch the spawning salmon.

Here's a great article describing the little enclave.

http://www.nytimes.com/2016/07/03/us/canada-alaska-hyder-stewart-british-columbia.html?_r=0

I found what I was looking for and I have a new vision for my life. Wish me luck!

Advice for a Road Trip to Alaska

So along the way I started keeping track of all of the little (and moderate) things that someone towing a small trailer or just plain driving the highway might want to know.

1.  Always carry cash and back-up debit and/or credit cards. I had all kinds of issues with my cards. I also saw other people having issues. They all worked out but be prepared- even if you call your bank and credit union to let them know you're travelling.

2.  If you're in the middle of nowhere and see a big bright box with a traffic light connected to it AND there's a sign that says wait for the pilot car- stop and wait. It's amazing how many people blow past those putting themselves and others in great danger in the huge road construction sites.

3.  Go before mid-September or be prepared for shorter hours at information centers and many closed RV parks, gas stations, etc. and possibly snow; definitely freezing weather.

4.  Decide when to go by what your priorities are. I saw fewer critters because it was hunting season in Alaska and moose rutting season everywhere. Think about the weather. I had heavy rain and incredibly clear sunny days. I experienced everything from 90+ degrees to just below freezing. Be ready for snow anytime of the year. There were less tourists when I went which made for happier information center and gift shop folks. The salmon runs were near the end so it was harder to see any bears. Don't forget bugs!

5.  Face it- you'll always have the wrong lens on your camera. Have a point and shoot and your phone available. Keep them next to you at all times.

6.  Signs are not always there. There might be one sign directing you to a rest area or the second sign might be right at the turn. Just slow down.

7.  4wd or AWD vehicles are recommended. They come in handy in the construction zones.

8.  Never let the gas tank get below 1/2, really. I carried an extra 5 gallons just in case. I'm glad I did in a couple of cases. One time because the station wasn't obvious and my truck's gas tank was low. Since my gas mileage was pretty low I was quite concerned when it got below 1/2.

9.  Plan for an average of 55mph. There are lots of steep hills, curves, construction, and more things that slow you down.

10. Don't drive between dusk and dawn. If you do, you really raise your risk for a collision with wildlife.

11. Stop at the small funky, eclectic places. Talk to the people. Connections with others is an important part of the adventure.

12. Don't be afraid to ask for help.

13. Carry lots of music. I could only listen to my set of 6 CDs twice in a day. Radio stations are few and far between and limited in the type of music.

14. Don't forget to stop, look, and listen once in a while.

15. Check your tires! Often. Make sure your spare is good, too.

16. Don't expect to see wildlife. Be surprised.

17. Slow down for the frost heave warning signs and/or orange flags/cones. If you don't, well sometimes it's okay but many times it's not going to be pretty when you hit it.

18. Make sure your windshield wipers are new. So much rain and so many bugs.

19. Bring your own laundry soap if you don't want to run around looking for some and those will be full of perfume. And doing laundry can cost $8CDN for 1 load wash and dry. 

20. Showers- tough. I suppose you could go to an RV park and pay. I only stayed at one B.C. Provincial Park that had a shower and the Yukon and Alaska Parks didn't seem to have any. Be prepared for few showers if you don't have a shower in your RV and you don't stay in RV parks.

21. Review and read the parts of the Alaska Milepost BEFORE heading out on this big trip. I reviewed the various highways I would be driving. Then every night while on the trip I reviewed the next days target camp spot, gas stops, and other interesting stops I might have time for.

22. Have a target of 250-300 miles. Check the Milepost for camping spots (and gas) and then have a back up spot.

23. Wifi is rare. If you stay at an RV park you might only get 1 hour or you pay $5 for unlimited time except they turn it off at 9pm. And none of it is strong enough to download photos. 

24. Coffee shops- bring your own. The larger towns have Tim Horton's otherwise there aren't really espresso stands all over the place. Or stop in a restaurant and grab a cup of coffee or tea. Or bring your own.

25.  Bring a tennis ball. It will come in handy for the long driving days when you hold your neck wrong. You can drive with it behind your neck or lie on it to get the kink out. It works great!

26. I finally took my truck to the car wash and it's shiny. Expect to find many windshield flecks (slight chips) when you return home. I found 24 in my truck's! 

Day 22 Last Road Day- to Home

Driving along the canyon

245 miles today-Red Hill Rest Area to home. Am I happy to be home? Yes...and no. Coming into Hope B.C. and the freeway traffic was difficult. So much frenzy and it continued all the way home. That's why I came home today and took Monday off to give myself two days to transition back from the wilderness.

It was strange to have the luxury of time today. I wasn't up late reading about where I was headed and what areas I should stop at, including gas. My routine will be drastically changing now.

It appears to be hunting season in British Columbia. I've noticed several vehicles with the same ORVs in their pick up truck beds or towed along behind them that I saw in Alaska. And yesterday I saw the covered head and antlers of an elk in the back of one as it went by. I've been pondering the hunting frenzy in Alaska. I don't know that all of them respect the wildlife they kill or if they are trophy hunting for wolves. I do know that that is a good reason to reinstate the buffer around Denali National Park to protect the wolves and other wildlife there.

Alexandra Bridge

Alexandra Bridge trail

Looking downstream from the bridge

I stopped at the Alexandra Provincial Park in B.C. A short 10 minute forested walk leads to the 1926 Alexandra Bridge over the Fraser Canyon. It's got such character, unlike most of today's bridges. My photos are a little off because I was holding Templeton. The metal grate of the bridge deck had large holes which he couldn't walk on. As I drove over the new higher bridge over the river I came near eye-to-eye with a soaring turkey vulture. Such cool birds.

A small group of grazing bighorn sheep surprised me. They were behind a guardrail in the little community of Spence's Bridge. There had been several warning signs and lots of craggy cliffs for them to hang out on. I'm glad I was finally able to see a couple.

My time at the border took 5 minutes. Apparently I'm not the targeted demographic for the American border patrol. Five questions and off I go. I am not likely to go through the Sumas/Abbotsford border again. This time I got lost trying to get back to I-5. Did you know that downtown Lynden looks a lot like downtown Snohomish? Yeah, now I know because I couldn't figure out where I was and how to get out!! Fortunately, google can be helpful although I still got turned around a couple more times. Geez, I drove all the way to Alaska and back and then get lost this close to home... I did see a male peacock wandering around because of my "lostness."

Home! Let me in.

Parked and done

The house was still here and so is Twig however, he keeps running off. I think he got used to my son taking care of him and gave up on me and Templeton coming back. Feeding him in the morning may change his mind.

Wildlife- several bighorn sheep, magpies, kestrels, red-tail hawks, turkey vulture, peacock.

Lesson #22 You can find your way out of "lostness".

Day 21 What to do today

random bear photo from day 17 because I didn't take any photos today.

Cartoon aficionados will get this:

Templeton: mom, what are we going to do today?

Me: the same thing we do every day, Temp, drive, stop for gas, and drive until I’m tired. LOL

253 miles today- Canyon Creek RV Park to Red Hill Rest Area. The first 90 were slow and challenging. Once again the rain was non-stop and the tire grooves full of water. So difficult! I can tell I’ve clutched the steering wheel a fair amount in the last 3 weeks by the calluses forming on my palms where my rings are! Good grief! LOL

Today’s drive was a repeat of last months drive up. My first stop was the Hixon gas station. I had a great chat with a young woman who grew up there. She said there’s a resurgence in the little community with dances and a parade and other activities. It was much more active when she was a kid (she’s in her early 20s, I’d say), then it became sedate. New people are moving in with new energy so that helps. They move in for the land and not to develop it- just to enjoy the space. As we were talking several guys came in buying beer- really at 9am? Hmmm…

I was stopped for yet more road construction. Most of it during the last couple of days has been paving. While sitting at this one I noticed they’re also widening the road. The sad part of that is it’s located right where a badger crossing sign is; the only badger sign on my entire trip. Bulldozers, backhoes, new side roads, the whole works. Probably can take that sign down.

The autumn colors are happening along this section of driving. They're once again a subtle gold of aspen and cottonwoods. The area has a lot of rangeland- basically parked out areas with large forested areas. Unfortunately, there were a fair number of cows, including some mucking around in several of the beautiful ponds. I also saw a small feedlot full of cows. I hadn’t noticed cows on the way up so I wonder if the cows were recently brought down from the high country? There were never more than 50 or so in a group that I could see.

I stopped at the 108 Mile Heritage House and rest area. There are several buildings from the 1800s that can be viewed into through wire mesh at the doors. It’s a great place to stop and stretch your legs. Templeton and I went into one of the little museum gift shops and I found some homemade apple-bacon dog treats. There were several other flavors but we chose that one. Yummy!

Tonight’s camp spot will be the Red Hill Rest Area- where I began this amazing journey. At least it won’t be 90+ degrees this time!

Every day is full of ravens. I’m going to miss them. We have them in Washington however, they aren’t found everywhere like British Columbia, Yukon Territory, and Alaska. It's a mystical place when you can find them.

Random selfie from Day 13- Denali Highway. One of only 2 I took on the trip. The Alaska Range is behind me.

Wildlife- osprey, red-tail hawks, quite a few kestrels, bald eagles,  magpie, peregrine falcon, western meadowlarks, crows, brewers blackbirds. 

Lesson #21 Journeys are one big wonderful circle!

Day 20 Just Another Day

My exciting sighting of the day- bear poop in the campground!

NOTE: There will be at least 5 more blog entries and photos added (photos by the end of the month). So please check back throughout the month. Since this blog is also a journal of sorts I will also be editing and adding to each day's entries. I'm often writing at the end of the day when I'm tired or early morning when I need to get on the road so I want to clean up the entries.

260 miles from Tyhee Lake Provincial Park to Canyon Creek Campground RV park in Hixon B.C. I’m so glad today dawned cloudy with the sun peeking out now and again. It made for much easier driving. From the looks of the clouds and roads around Prince George, I just missed some pretty heavy duty rain showers. The campground host confirmed that it has been raining for a week and the rain has been heavier than normal.

Today was pretty much just driving down a typical two-lane highway. Too cloudy to see the mountains I read about.

Watched the bushes come alive at Lake Tyhee this morning as robins gorged themselves on red osier dogwood berries.  Once again I fell asleep and woke up to the serenades of common loons. I wish we hadn’t developed all of our lakes in western Washington and allowed motor boats on them. Maybe we’d still have some common loons nesting on them.

As I left this morning I found evidence of the bear that the little yellow signs throughout the campground warned of- a giant pile of fresh bear poop in the road!

I have been thinking about all of the wildlife crossing signs everywhere. They are warnings for deer, moose, elk, wild horses, sheep, bear, and caribou in the appropriate areas however, the only one slowing down or seemingly paying attention is me. I swear everyone else speeds up! I’m doing at least 60 mph and they’re going 80. I think the conclusion that these warning signs don’t work is evident here. And drivers here love to pass just before the no passing zone starts. People are crazy passers here. I keep an eye out for them passing the opposite direction in case they are still in my lane which has happened a couple of times.

Random thought- I’ve noticed that Canadians refer to bathrooms/restrooms as washrooms.

I have so much time to ponder. (Chuckle) This land feels only partially domesticated; other places totally wild. There are still large tracts of intact temperate forest, boreal forest, tundra, taiga, muskeg, lakes, ponds, and rivers. Most areas have small to tiny towns which all seem to have bear, moose, wolf, elk or some other truly wild wildlife roaming around. It’s not like western Washington where we have eliminated the habitat for all but the hardiest- coyote, raccoon, opossum, sometimes deer. It’s not a panacea here. There’s plenty of poverty evident, especially in the First Nations villages/towns. And the resource extraction for forestry, mining, and oil and gas is extremely damaging. Roads and towns have been built in wildlife migratory paths and reduced the population of those species, e.g. caribou. I like that there are less people here and I saw no major development anywhere- none. The wild places aren’t being swallowed up like what is happening in Snohomish County (third fastest growing county in Washington). There are tradeoffs but how much money do you need? Besides things in our state have become so expensive making it impossible to get ahead. Retiring here is not my choice because I won't be able to afford a house or food on a fixed income in 6 years. It’s finding the balance of what you need in your life to be safe, secure, and healthy with the sacrifices you’re willing to make (weather, grocery stores located farther away, etc.). Life-pondering stuff.

Tomorrow I'm headed to the Cache Creek area for my final night out on the road. Back to the rest area where I started this amazing trip. It's unlikely there will be wifi so the next time I write it will be from home, IF I can get through the border crossing!

Advice- If you ever travel the Yellowhead Highway #16, avoid the Chevron at Fraser Lake. This is the first time I’ve come upon such condescending and rude people. If I’d known there was another station just down the road I would have left. Based on his comments, I suspect it’s because I’m an American and a woman. Pretty good for 20 days and no other assholes, though.

Canyon Creek RV Park

Wildlife- several kestrels, bald eagle, black bear, winter wren, common loons, American robins, hairy woodpecker, black-capped chickadees, Canada geese, osprey, tiny frog (I missed him and so did everyone else if he kept his pace up), crows, coyote.

Lesson #20 Your happiness comes from within. Find your happiness spot and take it wherever you go.