Day 11 Big Vast and Beautiful

Stream along Denali Highway

Only 90.8 miles today! The drive to the park is my first without the trailer hooked up. I did not know frost heaves and dips could be so much fun! With the trailer in tow it’s jolting but with just the truck at 60 or so miles per hour it’s like a roller coaster ride! Plus driving fast and stopping easily again feels like freedom. A sign that says 6% grade doesn’t cause anxiety. Missing an interesting pullout is no big deal; I can easily just turn around up the road. I think it will be difficult to hook up the trailer and drive like an old lady again in a few days.

Cantwell RV Park

Templeton guarding his domain

Today was my first exploration into the national park via 14.7 miles of the park road. That’s all that private vehicles are allowed to drive to protect the wilderness quality of the park and the wildness of the animals. The privilege ends at the Savage River Bridge where it becomes gravel for another 78 miles to Kantishna which has a lodge and runway (which might explain the silence of the park being regularly broken by airplanes). Pretty sure I couldn’t afford to stay there. There are four campgrounds you can drive to but then you have to rely on a shuttle bus to get anywhere. Someday I’d like to do that.  

I drove slowly on the road but never saw any mammals. That was a bit disappointing but tomorrow is my bus trip to Wonder Lake so I should see something. I hiked a couple of short interpretive trails since I had Templeton with me and I didn't want to leave him in the truck too long. Even though it was sunny all day the truck stayed cool until late afternoon because the air was cool.

Can I just say, everything is big and vast here- the rivers, the landscape, even the mushrooms! Although, the trees are not big- just vast.

Mushroom as big as a dinner plate

I walked the Savage River cabin loop trail. There are 5 cabins left in the park that were originally built in the 1920s and 30s for the winter patrol rangers. Even though they are historic some of them don’t fit the historical register requirements because they were moved from their original locations. Now they are staffed by seasonal rangers in the summer and used as shelter by the rangers and their sled dog teams on patrol in the winter. This one even had two old log dog shelters.

Savage Cabin

Bear-proofed with nails

Sled dog home

I also walked the Mountain Vista interpretive trail around the old Savage Camp area. From 1925 through the 1930s this area was filled with canvas tents. Guests were treated to tables with white linen tablecloths, cloth napkins, real silver ware, and vases of fresh picked wildflowers. A bus brought you to the wilds after arriving at the park by rail. Having a place for visitors to stay increased visitation from 64 in 1924 to 1000 in 1929 (half a million a year now).

Fun to compare the view then and now

I headed to the end of the open road and wandered along the Savage River at MP 14.7 away from the crowd. I quietly listened to the river and softly walked to see what I could discover. I found moose tracks all over in the willows (there are over 20 species of willow). I admired the striations in the mud; softly rippling water, tiny shadows of sedges playing on the mud; and followed the path of the moose through the willows becoming the moose. It was a delightful break.

After wandering the park I went shopping in Healy. I stopped at a funky grocery store and they actually had organic lettuce which I needed. Salads are few and far between out here. I went to the world famous Salmon Bake Bar and restaurant for a king salmon sandwich on gluten free bun with waffle fries. Their food is great and the atmosphere eclectic. I loved it! The building was built before the highway was and has three stories of space. Plus I'm sure there are many stories about the place. Templeton and I went back to a rest area along the Nenana River to eat and walk and take photos.

Eclectic spot with delicious food

Templeton the explorer

I took a short jaunt of a mile or so down the Denali Highway after being told there's a great view of Denali. Unfortunately, the afternoon light was too bright. I have a bus ride tomorrow so I can't check it out in the morning. Well, it's decided, I'm staying another day! Besides, I'll be too tired after the bus ride to get up and go driving 200 miles.

Collared pika rock at Savage River

Wildlife- heard a collared pika, magpies, and gray jays.

I keep forgetting to mention that I’ve seen so many beaver lodges on the road trip and actually saw a beaver swimming while I was driving some section of the trip. These are the quintessential lodges and ponds seen on so many nature shows. Just beautiful little ponds with cozy lodges.

Secrets revealed- moose do exist!

Lesson #11 Walk softly and quietly upon the land and she will reveal her secrets to you.